There
are some places I imagine I could blend in, pretty much anywhere English
speaking, maybe Argentina or Chile, maybe parts of Europe if I didn’t wear
sneakers. Northeast Thailand is definitely not one of them. Not only do I not
blend, I stand out. But unlike anywhere else I’ve ever been, no one really
seems all that interested. A big part of that is probably how many Westerns
come to Thailand, whether living here or just passing through. On the other
hand I’m in northeastern Thailand (Khong Chiam outside of Ubon Ratchathani if
you’re in the mood for googling). This is not on your guide book’s “Top 10
things to do in Thailand” list. There are no beaches. There is no one trying to
sell you anything or take you on a tour. But still, people seem to notice me,
and beyond an extra glance over their shoulder as they walk away, they don’t
seem to mind about me, one way or another. It’s actually really nice. It makes
being more than a head taller than everyone in this little town on the border
of Laos a little easier.
I
would say that would be my tagline for Thailand so far, it’s an easy place to
be. People are kind and helpful, the food is delicious, fresh and cheap,
Although I am in a very rural part of the country the roads are paved and the
lights are consistently on, and the little shops have all the necessities you
could need living here (even espresso!). It’s also a beautiful place to be,
with the Khong (Mekong) River on one side of our little peninsula and the Mun
(Moon) River on the other, it’s stunning in every direction.
In
other places I have found myself constantly apologizing for not speaking the
local language, and having people dismiss me solely because of it. Here
everyone is delighted when I nod and point, and at my butchering of Thank You
in Thai. I’m working on it, and they’re more than happy to put the price of
anything on their calculator to show me. People here don’t love me or hate me,
they seem to simply be untroubled by my presence. Maybe they’re just being
polite, but the Canadian in me appreciates some perfunctory politeness. Maybe I
just don’t know what they’re saying about me because I don’t speak Thai, but I
am more than content to live in a little ignorant bliss for the time being.
…………..
So
just a little update for everyone who reads this occasionally to keep track of
me, rather than for my keen insight (ha): I’m in Thailand, on the border of
Laos. I was in Bangkok for a few days before coming here, and will be staying
here until about December 15, when I will return to Bangkok. I’ll leave for
home on December 18th.
I’m here working, so it’s unlikely I’ll be able to see anywhere outside
of this rural corner of Thailand, but it looks like I’ll be putting it on my
list of places to visit again. I’m 12 hours ahead of EST and 15 hours ahead of
PST if you feel like calling, just email me for my Thai cell number or catch me
online.
More
to come!
.................
Update #2
So it's been 5 weeks and I take it all back. Okay not all of it but most of it. Thailand seeming easy and like no one bothered with me... well that was just in comparison to Angola. Angola is difficult. Thailand is... well it isn't easy. There's just more effort to present a pleasant front I think. Like for instance, when teaching a data collection method to researchers, my first thought of something they could rank (1-5 best to worst, you get the idea) was "Biggest Problems in Luanda" since people already talked about it alllll the time. There was trash and electricity problems, cost of living, traffic and on and on. But here, we went with "Things you like best about Khong Chiam" because everyone's preference is to say positive things, even though there are negative things to say, they just often don't get said. Very interesting and I'm learning, slowly but surely.
.................
Update #2
So it's been 5 weeks and I take it all back. Okay not all of it but most of it. Thailand seeming easy and like no one bothered with me... well that was just in comparison to Angola. Angola is difficult. Thailand is... well it isn't easy. There's just more effort to present a pleasant front I think. Like for instance, when teaching a data collection method to researchers, my first thought of something they could rank (1-5 best to worst, you get the idea) was "Biggest Problems in Luanda" since people already talked about it alllll the time. There was trash and electricity problems, cost of living, traffic and on and on. But here, we went with "Things you like best about Khong Chiam" because everyone's preference is to say positive things, even though there are negative things to say, they just often don't get said. Very interesting and I'm learning, slowly but surely.
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